{"id":11738,"date":"2023-12-28T20:58:38","date_gmt":"2023-12-29T03:58:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog2.neighbor.com\/storage-blog\/?p=11738"},"modified":"2026-08-25T01:51:42","modified_gmt":"2026-08-25T08:51:42","slug":"how-to-winterize-jet-ski","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.neighbor.com\/storage-blog\/how-to-winterize-jet-ski\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Winterize a Jet Ski in 2026: 9 Easy Steps"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

A jet ski that sits through winter unprepped is one hard freeze away from a cracked cooling line or a fuel tank full of gummed-up gas.

Because open-loop and closed-loop systems need different care, we’ve broken down the process into nine steps, so you’ll know exactly which ones apply to your ride before the temperature drops.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How to Winterize a Jet Ski in 9 Steps<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Some steps stay the same no matter what type of jet ski<\/a> you own. Others depend on your engine, cooling system, or how long your jet ski will sit in storage.

Here’s what to run through in order: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

1. Drain the water<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Water left in your jet ski’s cooling system can freeze and crack it once the temperature drops. That’s why this step comes first.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tilt your jet ski<\/strong> so the front sits higher than the back. Start the engine and let it run for 20–30 seconds<\/strong> at a time, giving the throttle a few pulls to push water through<\/a> the system. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Turn the engine off between rounds so it doesn’t overheat, then repeat until no more water comes out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Remove the drain plugs from the hull<\/strong> once you’re done. Leftover water can pool in the bilge and freeze there, too. A shop vac or towel can clear out water from spots you can’t reach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2. Prep your cooling system<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Check your owner’s manual to confirm which type of cooling system you have<\/strong>, since open-loop and closed-loop systems need different prep:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/td>🔓 Open-loop<\/strong><\/td>🔒 Closed-loop<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
How it cools<\/strong><\/td>Pulls water straight through the engine<\/td>Uses coolant for the engine block, raw water only for the exhaust and intercooler<\/td><\/tr>
Do you need antifreeze?<\/strong><\/td>Likely not<\/td>Likely yes, for the raw water side<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Your manual will have exact details, but here’s what to plan for if you have an open-loop system:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
  1. Attach the flush hose:<\/strong> Connect a garden hose to the jet ski’s flush attachment. Start your engine before you turn on the tap.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. Run the water:<\/strong> Let it flow through for 10–15 minutes.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  3. Clear it out:<\/strong> Turn off the water, then throttle in 10–15-second bursts.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  4. Finish the drain:<\/strong> Raise the nose slightly on the last round.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

    For a closed-loop system<\/strong>, check the label on your antifreeze. Concentrate typically calls for a 50-50 blend with water, but pre-mixed antifreeze goes in as-is.

    Once you know what you’re working with, start your engine and:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      \n
    1. Run it through:<\/strong> Send the mixture or pre-mix through the raw water side.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    2. Check the exhaust:<\/strong> Watch for clear flow before you shut it down.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

      ⚠️  Important:<\/strong> For either system, start the engine before you add water or antifreeze<\/strong>, and stop the flow before you shut off the engine. Getting that order backward can force water into the engine and cause damage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      3. Stabilize or drain the fuel<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

      Old gas left sitting all winter can break down and gum up your fuel system. You’ve got two ways to prevent that:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      <\/td>🪣Stabilizing and filling the tank<\/strong><\/td>🌀Draining completely<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
      Best for<\/strong><\/td>When you’re storing for a few months and riding again next season<\/td>Long-term storage, or facilities that require an empty tank<\/td><\/tr>
      Why it works<\/strong><\/td>Less room for condensation to form in the tank<\/td>Removes the fuel before it has a chance to break down<\/td><\/tr>
      Watch for<\/strong><\/td>Accidentally skipping the stabilizer<\/td>Condensation and rust, even in an empty tank<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n


      Check with your storage facility or host first<\/strong>, since some require an empty tank before you move a vehicle in. Check your owner’s manual, too, since some manufacturers recommend one method<\/strong> for a given model.

      If you’re stabilizing:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        \n
      1. Fill up the tank:<\/strong> Top it off completely.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      2. Add stabilizer:<\/strong> Use the amount that the label recommends for your tank size.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      3. Run the engine:<\/strong> Idle for about 10 minutes so the stabilizer mixes through the system.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

        If you’re draining the tank:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

          \n
        1. Drain the fuel:<\/strong> Empty it thoroughly.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        2. Protect the interior:<\/strong> Add a small amount of fogging oil, and tilt the tank so the oil coats the inside.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
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