The difference between your car starting on the first try and needing hefty work before it’s roadworthy is a couple hours of attention before you store it.
What Happens When a Car Sits Too Long Without Prep
Understanding the risks helps you decide which prep steps matter most and which you can skip, depending on how long you’re storing.
- Battery: A parked car’s battery can drain dead in 2–3 months. It’s from the small systems, like the clock and alarm, that stay on when the ignition is off.
- Tires: Temperature changes affect your air pressure, and flat spots can form after about 1 month, leaving noticeable changes, like a persistent vibration at higher speeds.
- Fuel: Ethanol-blended gas can start degrading in 30 days without a stabilizer. Ethanol absorbs moisture as it breaks down, and modern fuel injection systems don’t handle contaminated fuel well.
- Rodents: An open exhaust pipe is a nesting spot in cold months. Rodents can chew through wiring, leaving you with a car you can’t start.
Checklist: Pre-Storage and Post-Storage at a Glance
Take a screenshot or print this list before you start prepping, and leave it on your dashboard. When you’re ready to drive again, it’ll tell you exactly what to undo.
| Before you park | Before you drive |
| Tank full + fuel stabilizer added (if storing 30+ days) | Check all fluid levels before starting |
| Oil changed (if storing 30+ days) | Let the engine idle for a few minutes |
| All fluids topped off | Drive gently for the first 10–15 minutes |
| Tires inflated to max sidewall pressure (consider jack stands for 30+ days) | Inflate tires to normal driving pressure |
| Battery on trickle charger or negative terminal disconnected | Reconnect battery if you disconnected it |
| Car washed, interior cleaned, any food removed | Check under the hood for rodent damage or nests |
| Leather seats conditioned, floor mats removed | Mats replaced |
| Exhaust pipe plugged, air intake covered | Remove exhaust plug and intake cover |
| Wiper blades removed or lifted | Reinstall wiper blades |
| Handbrake released, wheel chocks in place | Remove wheel chocks |
| Cover on, note left on dashboard | Remove cover, save note |
Bring out this list every time you store. The steps are too easy to forget when you’ve got a lot on your plate.
How to Store a Car: 11 Steps
Whether you’re storing for 3 months or 3 years, the steps are mostly the same.
Step 1: Fill the tank
A partial tank gives moisture room to collect, which leads to rust and corrosion.
If the car will sit for more than 30 days, add a fuel stabilizer before filling up, then run the engine for 5 minutes so the treated fuel circulates through the system. A stabilizer can extend the fuel’s shelf life for at least 12 months.
Step 2: Change the oil
Old oil turns acidic and sits against your engine’s metal components for the entire storage period. A basic change costs $35 to $75 and prevents that corrosion damage.
Step 3: Check all fluids
Before you park, top off anything that’s low, including your:
- Coolant
- Brake fluid
- Transmission fluid
- Power steering fluid
- Windshield washer fluid
Low or degraded coolant can lead to corrosion, while old brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and can cause the brakes to get spongy or unresponsive.
Step 4: Inflate the tires
Cold temperatures drop your tire pressure, so inflate to the maximum sidewall pressure before you park.
After about 1 month, flat spots can form on your tires because the car’s full weight has sat on specific areas. Flat spots can mean you feel a nagging vibration next time you’re driving at highway speed.
Jack stands are usually a good idea if you’re storing for 3 months or longer, since they take the weight off entirely. Check your owner’s manual first, though, since some cars aren’t suited to stands for extended periods. If that’s the case, tire cushions are a solid fallback.
Step 5: Handle the battery
A parked car’s alternator stops charging the battery, so the battery slowly drains because of the smaller systems that keep running, even with no ignition.
What to do depends on whether you have a power outlet near your storage spot. If you do, consider buying a trickle charger or battery maintainer. This plugs in and keeps the battery full but not overcharged. If there’s no outlet, disconnect the negative terminal to stop the slow drain.
Without this type of prep, most batteries won’t have enough charge to start the car after 2–3 months.
Step 6: Clean inside and out
Give the car a proper wash, because anything left on the paint, like road salt or bird droppings, can eat into your clear coat as the months go by.
Inside, do a deep search for any trash, and clean up even the tiniest crumbs and stains. A granola bar wrapper can be enough of an invitation to your rodent neighbors, and they’re persistent.
Pull out the floor mats, too, so you don’t come back to mold. Left in place, mats can trap moisture against the carpet.
If you have a leather interior, it can crack and dry out over a full season, so condition the seats before you park.
Step 7: Plug the exhaust and seal the openings
Stuff the exhaust pipe with a clean rag or balled-up newspaper to block rodents from making a home. Seal the air intake and the A/C vents, too, if you can reach them.
Step 8: Remove the wiper blades
Wiper blades can bond to your windshield over time, especially in hot weather. If you go to use them without noticing, you can tear the blade or scratch the windshield.
Remove your wipers and store them inside the car, or prop the wiper arms away from the glass, if your car allows it.
Step 9: Release the handbrake
Make sure you’re on a level surface, and leave the car in gear, or Park for automatics. Use wheel chocks against the rear tires. Wooden blocks work fine if you don’t have purpose-made chocks.
If your handbrake is engaged for months, the pressure keeps the rear brakes partially engaged, and your brake pads can fuse to the rotors.
Step 10: Cover it up
A car cover protects your exterior from dust, moisture, and UV light. In an enclosed unit, a breathable fabric cover is enough.
Outdoors, you’ll need an all-weather cover. Don’t settle for a plastic tarp. It’ll trap moisture against the paint and can scratch the surface every time the wind shifts.
Be choosy and go for a cover that’s cut for your vehicle’s dimensions rather than a generic size.
Step 11: Leave yourself a note
Leave a checklist that covers everything you prepped on the dashboard and take a photo of it, so you’re not wondering if you really removed your wipers (or searching for the list) 7 months from now.
And when you’re ready to pick up your car, looking back over the checklist will keep you from hitting the road with the exhaust still plugged.
Choose the Right Storage Space
The right space for a weekend trip and a winter abroad look very different, so make sure your storage spot suits your timeline.
| Storage type | Best for | Watch out for |
| Indoor unit (enclosed) | Long-term storage, classic cars, all climates | Cost, and confirm drive-up access before booking |
| Covered outdoor parking | Shorter storage, mild climates | Sun exposure, temperature swings, and pests |
| Uncovered outdoor lot | Very short-term stays, budget concerns | Weather damage, UV paint fade, moisture |
When it comes to size: most sedans and mid-size SUVs fit in a 10×20 unit. Compact cars can usually fit in a 10×15. Large trucks, full-size vans, and extended-cab pickups typically need a 10×25 or 10×30.
Alongside spots at traditional storage facilities, Neighbor lists garages and driveways from hosts near you. These usually come with proximity and savings, but sizing can work a little differently, so check each listing for door width, clearance, and length before you book. Reviews and photos will help, but message the host if you’re not positive.
Car Storage Insurance: What to Do Before You Park
If the car will be off the road for 1 month or more, call your insurance provider. Comprehensive coverage protects against theft, vandalism, fire, and weather damage. This averages $27 to $51 a month, compared to $100 or more for full coverage.
If you’re financing the car, your lender likely needs you to keep a minimum level of coverage regardless, so double-check your loan terms.
Find Car Storage Near You on Neighbor
Neighbor lists parking and storage spaces from hosts in your neighborhood alongside the traditional options, so you can vet photos and reviews in a single search, not 11 tabs.
Because hosts aren’t running big facilities, their prices tend to be meaningfully lower. Most renters save up to 50%, compared to traditional storage, and eligible spaces come with up to $50K in rental property protection.
With a 4.9-star rating from 705,000+ reviews, booking on Neighbor is simpler, closer, and cheaper than most renters expect.
Compare what’s near you in a few minutes, or call us to talk it through.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I store a car for 6 months?
To store a car for 6 months, fill the tank and add a fuel stabilizer, change the oil, put the battery on a trickle charger, and inflate your tires. Top off all the fluids, clean the interior and exterior, remove your floor mats and wiper blades, and plug your exhaust pipe. Finally, you’ll need to put wheel chocks in place and release your handbrake before covering up your car.
Is it bad to let a car sit for a year?
Yes, without prep, letting a car sit for a year can damage your tires and brakes and lead to corrosion in different systems. Plus, pests can chew through crucial wiring.
Should you leave gas in a car when storing it?
Yes, always store a car with a full tank. Moisture can build up in any empty space, leading to rust and corrosion.
Which size storage unit fits a car?
The right size depends on what you’re driving. Compact cars usually fit in a 10×15 unit, mid-size SUVs fit a 10×20, and large trucks or full-size vans need a 10×25 or 10×30. Double-check that the unit is wide and long enough before you book, and ask about climate control if your vehicle is high-value.
